Snowpatch spire bugaboos cedar

From august 7 to 11, keith johnson and i established an 11pitch route v, 5. If, like most people, you enter the bugs via the trail to conrad kain hut, you wont have to ask. Bugaboo spire is surrounded by other spectacular spires, vertiginous snowpatch spire is a little lower but has fantastic technical routes for rock climbers. We had been scoping out the route for the past several days, and were itching to give it a shot. Paul heading to the snowpatch bugaboo col in the background. A group of six heading to the west ridge of pigeon spire.

In 1916, conrad kain led the first ascent of bugaboo spire the hardest technical route in the world at that time. The bugaboos have several internationally known rock climbing routes. Brandon prince descends a route called surfs up rated 5. This,646hectare park encompasses extensive ice fields, the largest glaciers in the purcells, and spectacular granite spires, some of which exceed 3,000 metres in elevation. Crescent spires mctech arete follows the groove and diagonal crackline immediately left of the snow. Applebee camp is located in an amazing picturesque alpine setting with bugaboo spire and snowpatch spire towering above.

Since it was just a short stroll from applebee camp, i was easily convinced. We started 100 feet to the right of the clean, leftfacing corners of warrior way and. Snowpatch spire as seen from the applebee dome campground. Tom egan wall, snowpatch spire, bugaboos supertopo rock.

Childcare, child care centers bugaboos kids club fort. Lisa at the burgschrund near the top of the bugaboo snowpatch col. Bugaboo provincial park british columbia travel and. After snowpatch spire was ticked, only one major peak remained unclimbed. In the late 1930s, snowpatch spire was talked of as the continents number one climbing problem. Hi, the bugaboos are in the northern purcell range in british columbia. Snowpatch spire, beckeymather route, first free ascent canada, british columbia, purcell mountains, bugaboos. The impressive snowpatch spire is the most obvious spire when entering the bugaboos. Rock climbing routes in snowpatch spire, the bugaboos. The beckeychouinard south howser spire, west ridge pigeon spire, northeast ridge bugaboo spire, snowpatch and surfs up snowpatch spire attract worldclass climbers. A one minute tour of the bugaboos as seen from the upper vowell glacier on thursday, july 6th, 2017, on a very nice and warm day. What used to be a face known primarily as an aid climbing venue, is now covered in freeclimbing lines, although mostly difficult ones, usually reqiuring at least a couple pitches of 5. Everything from hikingclimbing trips, photography trips, speaking engagements, art shows, new products, events, etc.

If you want to maximize the time spend on rock relative to your approach time, there are much better places for alpine climbing in western canada than the bugaboos. Snowpatch spire, east face, hockey night in jersey. The camping had spots to hang food, metal lockers, posted weather forecasts, wellkept outhouses, and easy access to the big east face of snowpatch spire and the south face of bugaboo spire. Climbers including fred beckey, ed cooper and layton kor in the late 1950s blazed the first face routes on snowpatch, bugaboo and pidgeon spires. And to top it off, the standard descent from the bugaboo snowpatch col was out due to a low snow year, which forced us to add a few miles of glacier travel around the far side of snowpatch spire. The kain route on bugaboo spire has 5 good pitches of climbing, the rest is scrambling and boot kicking in 40 degree snow and ice on the way to bugaboo snowpatch col.

In the summer of 2008 paul mcsorley casually mentioned a line he had scoped on the north face of snowpatch spire, starting about 40m right of sunshine crack. Bugaboo spire pigeon spire snowpatch spire eastpost spire. Snowpatch spiire in the middle with pidgeon spire in the background right and bugaboo spire coming into view on the hard right with the treacherous snowpatch bugaboo col in the centerright its so steep that many rappel down rather than try to boot down if you zoom in you can see the climbers ascent route zig. Another hike we did, was to hike west towards the glacier next to and below the snowpatch spire. Crescent tower rappel, bugaboos my favorite alpine climbing photos right click image for low resolution download or purchase higher resolution images. Snowpatch spire seen from p2 of the ne ridge of bugaboo spire. This article about a location in the interior of british columbia, canada is a stub. There are both bolted and free routes throughout the group. The route takes a circuitous path to the base of the snowpatch, then up easy ground left of the snow, and then 34 hard pitches all with some 5. The bugaboos are home to dozens of worldclass alpine granite lines, one of the mostclimbed is the north east ridge of bugaboo spire. Rock climbing in the bugaboos sylvan rocks climbing.

After suffering the trauma of a severe lighting strike that destroyed the largest of the tress limbs. Bugaboos 2016 beckeychouinard, ne ridge bugaboo spire. Jon walsh on the second pitch of the beckeymather route on the east face of snowpatch. It is located southwest of the conrad kain hut, across the crescent glacier. Canadian rockies alpine guides the bugaboos, world. Jun 08, 2016 we climbed the bugaboo spire, pigeon spire, snowpatch spire, eastpost spire, and crescent spire in bugaboo provincial park. Our philosophy and mission is to provide stepping stones for a safe, clean, friendly, caring, learning environment, while having fun. Snowpatch spire is in the purcell range of the canadian rockies, and within a subrange called the bugaboos. The herd was cross boundary, spending some time in extreme northern idaho, eastern washington, and british columbia, canada. As long as you pay decent attention to the topo, you can stay on route. A few miles of glacier travel that was almost assuredly going to be in fading light at best. Snowpatch spire and eastpost rest day snowpatch route 5.

The trailhead is back on bugaboo creek road about 2. We hiked up bubaboo snowpatch col to the base of the kain route on bugaboo spire. A pair of rock climbers ascend surfs up, a route on snowpatch spire in the bugaboos, british columbia. We descended down the krausmccarthy rappel route on the west face of snowpatch spire. We climbed the bugaboo spire, pigeon spire, snowpatch spire, eastpost spire, and crescent spire in bugaboo provincial park. Cedar spire treehouse at the end of a long driveway in the grounds of a grand scottish estate in fife, stands a 500 year old cedar tree. On july 27, we summited bugaboo spire via the ne ridge. Thankfully there is an openair outhouse at the col, though no toilet paper so bring a day amount if you plan on using it.

A dusting of new snowtemperatures will be well below freezing max 6c on sat morning, min 9c on sun nightwind will be generally light. Aac publications snowpatch spire, east face, new routes. After gaining the bugaboo snowpatch col, 3rd class scrambling starts up the ridge following trails and cairns. Vertical midwest, 604 galloway st, eau claire, wi 2020. Posted in hut skiing, personal history, photography, rock climbing, ski touring tagged california, castle rock spire, dogwood tree, elderberry, generals highway, glacier polish, granite, incense cedar tree, kings canyon national park, mineral king, ponderosa pine, red fir tree, sequoia national park, sequoia tree, sierra juniper tree, sierras. Fritz wiessner, 1938, made the best attempt before bedayn and arnolds success. Bugaboo spire pigeon spire snowpatch spire eastpost. As part of the rei coop family, were dedicated to making websites and mobile apps that help outdoor enthusiasts connect, share information and get out into the places they love to play. Bugaboo provincial park is located in southeastern b. Views of and from the mountain in any direction are gutwrenchingly beautiful. The impressive snowpatch spire is the most obvious spire when entering the bugaboo s.

Snowpatch spire sits in the middle of the bugaboo group, so has a great view of the bugaboo glacier peaks, pigeon spire, the howser towers, bugaboo spire, crescent spires, and applebee dome camp. To compile snowpatch manually, clone the git repository and run cargo build release. This past summer, a team of climbers set out to recreate that experience using period gear hobnailed boots, a hemp rope and a 100yearold camp stove. From there we climbed over bugaboo snowpatch col to set up our bivy by pigeon spire to position us for climbing the. In all, the bugaboos linkup totaled approximately 50 pitches. For climbs on these features, you only need tennis shoes and a light axe or. Bugaboo spire, and the rest of the bugaboo group, are legendary for steep, clean, solid granite, high above easy glacier approaches. This is one of roper and stecks fifty classic climbs of north america a beautiful line in an incredible position.

Snowpatch spire, east face, hockey night in jersey, bugaboos. Youll first set your eyes on this spire from the parking lot and will identify it by its huge patch of snow found half way up the side of the east face. Man at scenic campsite, bugaboos provincial park, british columbia, canada. Bugaboos 2007 beckeychouinard, nw ridge hounds tooth. After 20 minutes, we emerged from a dense forest of cedar, douglas fir. July 27, 2014 3156m bugaboo provincial park, bc among the granite spires in the bugaboos, pigeon spire offers a relatively straightforward route up. The options are limitless in the bugaboos with countless routes from high alpine snow and ice to moderate multipitch rock routes and for the more adventurous the big walls which host some of the best climbing in the world.

Bugaboos guided alpine rock climbing in the bugaboos. All routes on the west face are approached via the bugaboosnowpatch col located on the north end of snowpatch spire. The snowpatch binary will be installed as snowpatch. The cedar spire treehouse in fife scotland, design by gordon. The descent via the kain route went into the morning of july 28th. July 28, 20 2728m bugaboo provincial park, bc the famous bugaboos is one of the mustvisit places in north america. To get to pigeon spire, howser towers, and the kain route on bugaboo spire you ascend the steep snow slope to the right of snowpatch spire on the snow finger, which puts you at snowpatch col. From the summit of snowpatch spire, the bugaboos, british columbia, canada. Snowpatch spire, bugaboos, british columbia, canada. This print is a reproduction of my original painting, which was created in 2015 using watercolor, acrylic ink, pen, and gel pen on paper. Snowpatch spire, beckeymather route, first free ascent. The executable can be found in targetrelease snowpatch or executed using cargo run. Established with an 8x8 cedar frame cab in 1910, a cupola cab replaced it about 1919. Snowpatch spire 10,050 feet this dominant buttress holds over 50 routes from 5.

They deserve a place high on the priority list of anyone with an attraction to wilderness setting and a love of the classic alpine environment. The ridge was first climbed in 1958 by dave craft, david isles, richard sykes and john turner. Aac publications snowpatch spire, north face, the dark prince. Snowpatch spire, the bugaboo snowpatch col and pigeon spire in the background. Eastpost spire is the most popular scramble objective and offers a good introduction. Dec 19, 2014 one of the fifty classic climbs of north america for a reason. Tom egan wall, snowpatch spire, bugaboos supertopos climbing discussion forum is the worlds most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. Ridge of pigeon spire is one of the most enjoyable technical british columbia climbing scrambles to be found anywhere and the smaller crescent spires offer enjoyable climbing at. Joe buszowski and bernhard ehmann made the first winter ascent in 1985.

You will need ice axe and crampons to safely approach any of the rock routes. In summer, it is one of the most spectacular places on the planet, a magical place of ice and granite. Largest countries countries of the world beauty around the world around the worlds beautiful sites beautiful places bugaboo amazing places on. Canadian will stanhope has redpointed the tom egan memorial route on the east face of snowpatch spire in the bugaboos at 5. Dave returned with great tales of gleaming granite spires, rising gloriously out of glaciers. Snowpatch spire, bugaboos, canada amazing places on.

After about 30 miles from brisco, look for the bugaboo creek forest road, where you will find the bagabooseptet recreational site, and campground just down this road a ways. The largest wall on snowpatch is the east face with routes ranging from 12 to 15 pitches and almost all of them being big wall in nature. Conrad kain once described this spire as being unclimbable. Just got back from 5 days in the bugaboos with my friend clint cummins. Id been to the nearby rockypoint ridge and got a headon panorama view of these spires, but never been to the core area. Photos from vertical midwests post stanhope redpoints bugaboos hardest free climb canadian will stanhope has redpointed the tom egan memorial route on the east face of snowpatch spire in the bugaboos at 5. Pigeon spire, south howser tower, bugaboo spire, and snowpatch spire all conjure up some of the great moments in the history of north american alpine climbing. An l4 cab along with a garage followed it up in 1935. The bugaboo snowpatch col, a major avenue of approach or descent for many climbs is guarded by a bergschrund on the east crescent glacier side. Premier listings for bugaboo provincial park bugaboo is a firstclass mountaineering region, situated in the rugged purcell mountains in the bc rockies region of british columbia.

With problems with routefinding and unexpected ice. The largest wall on snowpatch is the east face with routes ranging from 12 to 15. In the bugaboos during the last week of july, craig luebben, will hair, brad jackson and kennan harvey teamed up to establish sweet sylvia v 5. The garage was converted to living quarters in 1942 when the lookout was used for the aircraft warning service during world war ii. In the immediate vicinity, bugaboo, pigeon, and snowpatch spires. Morning sun on snowpatch spire and the bugaboo snowpatch col. It features a peak in the bugaboos mountain range of british columbia. The stream falls rapidly down the scoured rock to the valley below. Its right in front of you when you reach the hut, the distinctive snowfield that gives the mountain its name front and center. Passing the schrund is dicey in late summer a climber was swept into it and killed in. Chris atkinson on the south ridge of thor peak, baffin island. If, like most people, you enter the bugs via the trail to conrad kain hut, you wont have to ask anyone for directions to snowpatch. Despite some somewhat iffy weather, we managed to climb some stellar routes.

Tents are perched on about three tiers of rock ledges below crescent glacier. We passed by a beautiful series of alpine tarns just as the sun rose, and i was able to take some fantastic photos of the sunrise over snowpatch spire. There is a nunatak called the hounds tooth at the head of the valley with bugaboo glacier cascading around both. Snowpatch spire is the centerpiece of the bugaboo group. After dropping down as far as we could, we turn up hill and walked along the stream coming out of the glacier. Passing the schrund is dicey in late summer a climber was swept into it and killed in aug. After 20 minutes, we emerged from a dense forest of cedar, douglas fir, and hemlock below a steep rock wall. It is just nonintuitive that you downclimb about 1015 ft, traverse over about 10 ft, then climb back up above the belay before placing any gear. The previous summer dave had disappeared from the gunks to purportedly visit a fabled range of real mountains that the vulgarians had never heard of. Snowpatch spire, bugaboos, august 1997 the classic view of the east face of snowpatch spire. Bugaboo provincial park british columbia travel and adventure. One of north americas 50 classic climbs, this is one of the most popular routes in the bugs, and with good reason. Im breaking it up into a few reports for the individual climbs. This gravel road, which opens late spring through late fall, begins at brisco, 27 kilometres north of radium hot springs or 76 km south of golden on highway 95.

Sunshine is on the north face, which can be approached by following the trail from the hut about a quarter way up toward the snowpatch bugaboo col to a large, loose ledge. Snowpatch spire is on the left, and bugaboo spire is on the right. The famous bugaboos is one of the mustvisit places in north america. With its first ascent in 1940, snowpatch spire mountain peak was the last of the bugaboo spires to be climbed. The drinking water source is a small glacial lake above camp and is actually piped down and fetched from a spigot. The southern end of the selkirk mountains was the home of the last naturally occurring caribou herd in the contiguous united states, the south selkirk mountain caribou. Welcome to bugaboo rock guides, an alpine rock climbing and mountaineering guiding service specializing in bugaboo adventures.

Rapping off the tower at dusk, he was back at the campground by 8 p. Bugaboo spire climbing guide british columbia climbing. The east face of snowpatch spire showing the route welcome to the machine pitches, 5. Over the last decade or so, the 500meter high east face of snowpatch spire has been transforming into one of the finest alpine rock faces in north america. Eastpost spire is the most popular scramble objective and offers a. Snowpatch spire giclee print bugaboos, british columbia. Be aware that in the best of conditions, weather here is volitile. Finally, the weather cleared and we decided that it was time to try for bugaboo spire s north east ridge. After snowpatch spire was ticked, only one major peak remained unclimbed, south howser tower. This gallery is comprised of photos from recreational and guiding trips. Of the pitches, 12 are new and one is shared with the route deus ex machina, an a3 pitch that walsh and berg free climbed at 5. Chehalis, pasayten, squamish, canadian rockies, bugaboos, valhallas. Apr 24, 2001 our route was a 46mile loop in the sierra nevada from cedar grove at about 5,000 feet through paradise valley to woods creek which wed follow to the john muir trail and up to rae lakes. Snowpatch spire, surfs up eric and lucies bus trip.